Sur les routes d’un pays méconnu : l’Albanie

Avec ses 400 kilomètres de côtes, ses lacs et ses villages de pierres, l’Albanie a de quoi ravir les voyageurs en quête d’authenticité. Pourtant, ce pays d’Europe de l’Est, pas plus grand qu’une région française, est loin d’être une destination privilégiée des Européens de l’Ouest. En attestent le peu de guides qui lui sont consacré.

« L’Albanie, pourquoi ? », telle est la question qui nous a sans cesse été posée lorsque nous avons fait part de notre envie de parcourir le pays pendant neuf jours. Sur place, les Albanais eux-mêmes s'étonnaient de notre choix de destination estivale. Flattés, ils nous ont merveilleusement accueillis. C'est dans un anglais approximatif, usant ça et là de termes italiens, que nous avons pu converser. L’Albanie laisse la singulière impression d’être un pays qui échappe à l’emprise du temps, loin de la ferveur et de l’agitation des grandes capitales où l’on ne sait plus prendre son temps. Là-bas, on attend patiemment son autobus, on n’hésite pas à vous consacrer une vingtaine de minutes pour vous renseigner, vous guider ou simplement bavarder. « Patience », tel est le refrain qu’il faut garder à l’esprit sur les routes albanaises. Car rares sont les villes où les horaires sont affichés et il n’y a pas toujours d’arrêts de bus officiels. Mais même si, tous les matins, on s’est demandé comment et combien de temps il nous faudrait pour arriver à bon port, en bus, minibus, taxi ou autostop, on a toujours fini par y parvenir.

Serrées dans des minibus ou calées au fond d’un bus, nous avons arpenté les routes escarpées du Sud du pays. Nous sommes passées de village en village où nous avons pu constater que chacun d’eux, même les plus petits, étaient pourvus d’une station essence ; et si le pays manque souvent d’eau l’été, on ne compte pas le nombre de « lavazho » pour nettoyer son auto. Dans un pays où le réseau ferré est quasi nul, la place de la voiture (la fameuse Mercedes 240D) est en effet prépondérante. Par ailleurs, les bus et minibus ne desservent pas tout le territoire… l’autostop devient alors la solution alternative très utile (de surcroît économique), notamment pour de courtes distances : on s’arrête spontanément et on n’hésitera pas à se serrer ou à déménager le coffre de la voiture spécialement pour vous !
« MAIS AVEC SES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES À PEINE ENTRETENUS, TIRANA PEINE ENCORE À RIVALISER AVEC SES VOISINES DE L’OUEST »
Durant nos trajets, par la fenêtre, nous n’avons pu manquer les innombrables bunkers désaffectés qui parsèment le paysage, qui poussent dans les champs et jusque sur les plages. Construits sous la dictature d’Enver Hodja afin de dissuader les éventuels envahisseurs, ils témoignent d’une psychose de guerre. Même s’ils n’ont jamais servi, ces bunkers rappellent aujourd’hui les 40 années d’isolement du pays. On peut d’ailleurs trouver curieux qu’ils n’aient pas été détruits à la fin de la dictature ; certains ont à la place été peints. Cela nous a rappelé les immeubles colorés de Tirana. C'est à Edi Rama, maire de la capitale depuis 2000, que l'on doit cette belle initiative. Dès le début de son mandat, il a fait appel à des artistes pour embellir les façades mornes des immeubles à l'architecture communiste. Si ces couleurs criardes font quelque peu cache-misère, elles ont au moins le mérite d'égayer le quotidien des habitants et d'être un élément caractéristique de la capitale dont les photos ont par ailleurs fait le tour du monde.

Longtemps oubliée, Tirana cherche à s’élever au rang de capitale européenne. C’est aujourd’hui une ville en plein essor, comme en témoigne la modernité de son quartier des affaires, ou encore la rue animée où s’alignent les restaurants et bars branchés. Mais avec ses « Champs Elysées » à peine entretenus, le peu de mobilier urbain et sa rivière non aménagée ni valorisée, Tirana peine encore à rivaliser avec ses voisines de l’Ouest. On sent, dans toute l’Albanie, une certaine fascination pour les pays d’Europe de l’Ouest et les Etats-Unis. La jeunesse est le premier révélateur de cette influence culturelle : les tubes américains résonnent aussi bien dans les discothèques de la capitale que dans les bus de campagne. Le soir, on s’habille à la mode, les garçons sont parfumés, les filles sont très apprêtées et n’hésitent pas à chausser leurs plus hauts talons malgré les pavés et le dénivelé des rues comme à Berat et Gjirokastra.
Ainsi l’Albanie tente de s’émanciper du passé communiste où il n’était pas permis d’apprendre l’anglais à l’école. Le pays affiche clairement ses nouvelles relations avec ses ennemis d’autrefois et n’a pas hésité à rebaptiser une de ses rues du nom de l’ancien président américain, Rruga Presidenti George W. Bush , à la suite d’une visite diplomatique. La récente candidature de l’Albanie à l’Union européenne vient confirmer les ambitions du pays de s’ouvrir à l’international. Sur place d’ailleurs, nous nous sommes véritablement sentis aux premières loges d’un pays en pleine mutation. Les villes ne cessent de se développer et de s’étendre, comme en témoignent le grand nombre de chantiers qui jalonnent les routes. Si l’Albanie est encore peu visitée, le pays a du potentiel et certains promoteurs investissent déjà dans des complexes hôteliers, comme à Vlora et Saranda où les hauts immeubles altèrent le paysage. On ne pourra garder pour nous plus longtemps cet espace encore préservé.

Se loger : à l’auberge de jeunesse , comptez entre 8 et 12 euros la nuit. A l’hôtel, comptez environ 35 euros la chambre double ailleurs qu’à Tirana.
Manger : le Byrek (entre 20 et 40 centimes d’euro), snack local, est une pâte feuilletée garnie de fromage, d’épinard, de viande hachée ou de tomate. Pour une dorade grillée sur la plage comptez 3,50 euros. Et pour un plat à Tirana dans un restau branché, 4,50 euros.

Source : www. cafebabel .fr

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